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Friday, January 18, 2013
Friday, November 23, 2012
The Complete Guide to Skyland’s Boulder Problems
This guidebook originally started as an idea for a small (1hr) project to make a simple list of 100 boulder problems at Skyland which would serve as a refrence for me and a small group of friends. Obviously, I got really into it and unintentionally documented and described all the boulder problems that I could think of in my 9+ years of bouldering at Skyland. This guidebook is the end product.
I decided to share because of the general lack of written information about Skyland that is available. Because of this lack of information, most of the climbers who visit Skyland usually only climb on a small circuit of popular problems. Hopefully, because of the extensiveness of this guide, more climbers will be able to enjoy the wide variety of bouldering that Skyland has to offer.
I have tried to be as objective as possible while writing the descriptions and have included as few of my personal opinions as possible. There are no stars or must do problems mentioned. I know the descriptions might sound dry, but I have done this to try to keep the adventure and excitement of Skyland alive.
Now, with all that said, a few last words. Please think twice about using tick marks, and if you do use them please brush them off. Try to use only established trails whenever possible. Leave no trace.
Welcome to Skyland and happy climbing,
Disclaimer: This is not a guidebook. This is not intended to be used as a guidebook. All the names are made up.
All the grades are made up. All the descriptions are made up and are probably wrong.
©Zach Alberts "Skyland Bouldering" First Edition, 2008.
The Approach: All of the boulders described in this book can be approached from the town of Crested Butte by using Tony’s Trail then turning right on the Upper Loop Trail. (No Dogs Allowed) They can also be approached from Mt. Crested Butte by using the Upper Loop Trail.
The Trailside Boulders
The Trailside Boulders refer the group of boulders which lie alongside the Upper Loop Trail. If you approach from town on Tony’s Trail or from Mt. Crested Butte on the Upper Loop Trail, the Hone Stone will be the first large boulder encountered on the right hand side just after the intersection of those two trails. If approached from the Skyland Residential Community on the Upper Loop Trail, the Warm-Up Rock and Spicy will be the first boulders encountered on the right hand side of the trail after making a sharp left where the trail flattens out.
The Warm-Up Rock is easily identified by the 10ft high vertical south face which has a zigzagging crack going up the center of vertical, juggy rock.
1. Ledgy Long V1—sit start on the left side of the south face (trailside face) with the left hand in a slot and the right hand on a crimp below a small roof. Bump to the juggy ledge, and then climb to the top.
2. Unnamed V1—stand start just left of Zigzag Crack and right of Ledgy Long. Start with both hands on a right facing jug. Then go straight up to crimps in a horizontal seam, and then make a long move to the top.
3. The Zigzag Crack V0—stand start in the middle of the face using left facing jugs for hands and big footholds. Then go up the clean zigzagging crack.
4. Mahone V3—start low on small crimps in a more or less horizontal seam about 5 feet to the right of Zigzag Crack. Move up to the sloping rail with a deep pocket, and then climb to the top.
5. Hell’s Micro V1—start low with hands matched on a good left facing crimp in a grey hueco like feature on the low left side of the face. Move rightwards on good holds and then up the zigzagging seam to the top. Note: other guidebooks show two problems Hell’s Ditch and Micro, on this side of the boulder. I have not included those problems in order to avoid confusion in the descriptions. Hell’s Micro is a combination of the two older problems which create what seems to be the more classic line nowadays.
6. Unnamed V2—stand start on the right side of the face with the right hand in a good right facing slot and left hand on a small right facing crimp in the seam. Traverse leftwards and up. Top out as for Hell’s Micro.
7. Warm-Up Traverse V2—this mostly juggy traverse on the backside of the boulder starts low with both hands matched on the good broken ledge on the far left side of the face. Move right (staying low) and finish with a low slopey move around the right corner and finish on jugs up and right on broken rock.
This smallish boulder just to the east of the Warm-Up Rock is home to one problem, Spicy.
8. Spicy V5—this low, right to left traverse starts with both hands matched on the sloper to the right of the juggy hole on the northwest face. Move into the hole, and then keep moving left on small crimps, slopers and a hollow sounding flake using small footholds until below the clean arête, then climb straight up to the top.
About 50 yards up along the Upper Loop Trail from the Warm-Up Rock this giant monolith is on the left hand side.
9. Big V4—stand start on the far left side of the the massive overhanging face. Using the left side of the arête, climb up the arête all the way to the top.
10. Long Shot V6—starts sitting directly underneath the intimidating prow on the left side of the west face. The right hand starts on a sloper on the face to the right of the prow and left hand starts on a hold on the left side of the prow. Move up the arête as for Big, but gain face holds up high to make a big move out right to a jug at the lip and then to the top.
11. Escape Hatch V2—starts low on the right side of the huge roof that makes up the west face of this boulder with the right hand on a good sidepull flake near the arête and the left hand on a good crimp. Move up flakes, topping out right low on the arête.
12. Filth Pig V5—this climb parallels Long Shot on the opposite side of the face. Start as for Escape Hatch, but instead of topping out to the right, continue up and left, making your way up and out the massively overhanging greenish prow. Top out about 15 feet above the ground on smallish holds on the tip of the prow.
13. Blunt Boy V0—stand start and go up good holds which lead up the middle of the south face.
14. Mister Twister V1—start as for Blunt Boy and traverse up and right on crimps to the top out to the right side of the face.
15. Smokers Arête V7—start sitting with the left hand in a cut out wedge feature on left side of the arête. The right hand starts on the right side of the arête on small right facing crimp. Move straight up the arête on small holds to a high top out.
16. Afternoon Lightening V5— the slightly overhanging face to the right of Smoker’s Arête starts low with both hands matched on a horizontal lightning bolt hold and goes straight up.
About 50 yards north on The Upper Loop Trail from the Joint Rock stands the High Times boulder on the right hand side. It has a slightly overhanging 20 foot high south face.
17. Far Left El Skyland V4—start standing on the far left side of face with the left hand lower in the pocket/crimp and the right hand on top of the small flake. Move straight up, using a left hand shallow pocket to gain bigger holds up high and the summit.
18. Left El Skyland V3—start standing with both hands matched in an undercling under a small roof feature. Using polished footholds, move up the shallow dihedral to good holds and the top.
19. Center El Skyland V4—start low with hands matched on a good edge in the middle of the face. Move up and left on good crimps to the hollow sounding left facing flake up high and then top out.
20. J-Crack V5—start by standing on far right side of the "L" shaped rail that splits the face. Move up and left on the rail to a thin top out.
21. Right El Skyland V1—start as for J-Crack, but make moves on good crimps straight up to the top.
22. Far Right El Skyland V2—stand start on the far right side of the face with the left hand on a good crimp and the right hand on a sloper directly on the arête. Move straight up the steepening arête to the top out near Right El Skyland.
23. Machine Head V6—start as for Far Left El Skyland and traverse rightwards along face staying low and topping out the same as for Right El Skyland.
24. Dark and Dirty V1—stand start on good holds in the center of the east face. Move up the lichen covered face straight up to dirty crux moves into lower angle terrain.
25. Aspen Arête V3—stand start on the far left side of the west face just right of a large aspen tree. Start with the right hand on a flat sidepull and the left hand out on the arête. Move up the arête, staying left of the jug in the middle of the face, to a slopey top out.
26. Casual Corner V1— stand start in the obvious corner. Go straight up, using whatever holds to top out.
27. High Times DownclimbV0—the downclimb of this boulder starts about 15 feet right of Casual Corner. Use good crimps to reach the upper slab and the top, and then downclimb.
28. Cheeky Monkey V1—stand start on the far left side of the face. Use the arête and small pockets and crimps to move up the slab to reach the top.
29. Slag Face V1—stand start five feet right of Cheeky Monkey with hands matched on a left facing crimp. Climb up, using shallow pockets on the slab to reach the top.
The Crotch Rocket
This mini boulder lies right alongside the Upper Loop Trail on the left, just as you enter the aspens heading west towards the Hone Stone from High Times.
East (trailside) Face
30. Crotch Rocket V6—start practically lying down on the far left (low) side of the mini prow. Start the problem with a hand on the relatively good flat/sloping edge in the light brown lichen and the other hand below and to the left on a pockety crimp. Move out and right, using heel hooks and slopers to reach the top out at the highest point of the boulder (which is at about 4 feet high.)
The Hone Stone
This large boulder sits at the junction of Tony’s Trail and the Upper Loop Trail. The vertical dark face of Two Evils is alongside the trail and is shrouded by a few aspens, while the overhanging south face is identified by the hole in the center of the face which is one of the holds on Atomic.
31. Weeping Warrior V6—stand start below the prominent, tall, overhanging arête with a hand in the deep 1 or 2 finger pocket (reachy). Move up the arête using crimps and small footholds to gain the summit.
32. Screaming Warrior V8—start by standing on the far right side of the east face about 5 feet left of a couple of aspen trees. Start with hands matched on a high sloper and good footholds. Traverse left along slopers and crimps, moving up then down with difficult moves to gain the start of Weeping Warrior. Finish as for Weeping Warrior.
33. Space Wrangler V7—start as for Weeping Warrior, but at about half height move leftwards using pockets on the face to the top out.
34. Hone Slab V1—use the same start holds as Screaming Warrior, but move straight up on slopers and then right to better holds to the top.
35. Blunt Arête V7—start by standing on a blunt arête feature just to the right of a couple of aspen trees and about 5 feet to the left of the sloping start holds of Two Evils. Start with hands on small slopers at about 5 feet high, and then climb straight up the almost featureless arête to the top.
36. Two Evils V4—start by standing with hands on matching slopers in the middle of the north face. Small feet and sharp edges lead up to a small overlap. Once at the overlap, move up and left to the top out.
37. More Evil V5— same start as Two Evils, but move right at the small overlap for a more direct finish.
38. Hot Pockets V5—start by standing on the left side of the face with the right hand in an extra sharp pocket about 5 feet up. The left hand starts above and to the left on the 2 or 3 finger flat edge/shallow pocket. Use these holds and small footholds to move up and right to another sharp pocket then up face to top.
39. Honed Arête V1—start by standing on the right side of the west face directly on the arête. The left hand starts on a good left facing crimp and the right hand starts on a small edge directly to the right of the left hand. Move up and right to another crimp then climb to the top.
40. Peaceful Warrior V8—start by standing (or on stacked pads) on the left (low) side of the sloping rail. The left hand starts on a sloper on top of the rail, and the right hand starts on another sloper just to the right. Make a move up and right into the shallow pocket on the rail which makes a good edge and then keep moving right onto a good two handed sloper/ crimp on the rail. Keep moving out right using small holds on the rail with increasing difficulty to the top out in the lichen covered rock about 5 feet to the right of the top out for Atomic and just before the top out for Weeping Warrior.
41. Atomic V7—start by standing in the middle of the slightly overhanging face with the left hand on a side pull and the right hand on a lower razor-like crimp in a seam. Move into the hole, and then up side pulls to a slopey top out.
42. Atomic (sit start) V10—start by sitting low and to the right of the stand start. Using good holds, move out left to the razor edge and continue to the top.
Hidden amongst aspens, The Shield is barely visible from the trail. Walk about 50 yards or so west along the Upper Loop Trail from the Hone Stone. The Shield is on the right side of the trail just at the tree line as the hill goes up. This is also the approach for Zach’s Camp.
43. The Shield V2—stand start about five feet below and slightly to the right of the big hueco feature on the upper left side of the face. Use a positive left hand sidepull to move up to a positive right hand edge, and then move into the hole and up to the top.
The Swamp Stones
The Swamp Stones
are the group of about six developed boulders which lie either on the outskirts or in the middle of the small depression of land which lies in the aspen grove to the east of the Upper Loop Trail and about 25 yards northwest of the Warm-Up Rock. A good trail disappears into the shadow of the aspen grove leading directly to The Wedge.
From the Warm-Up Rock, walk about 25 yards west on the Upper Loop Trail until a climbers trail is visible on the right which heads into the aspens. The boulder is about 20 yards down this trail on the right and has a prominent prow facing to the north.
44. Matt’s Radical Route V4—start low underneath the overhanging face about 5 feet to the left of Captain EO. The right hand starts low on a crimp and the left hand starts on a pinch on the arête. Move up and traverse rightwards along the lip of the roof. Top out as for Captain EO on the right side of the arête.
45. Slap Happy V3—start by sitting directly below the overhanging arête. Make a big move up and right to a good crimp, and then move up to big holds on the top of the triangle like feature. Make long moves out left to gain the lip of the overhang and then the vertical face to top out.
46. Captain EO V4—start the same as for Slap Happy. Move up the prow using both sides for feet and hands, eventually using a small left hand crimp on the bulge to move to the top of the prow. Top out on the right side of the prow.
47. Manic V1—start by standing in the shallow dihedral just to the right of the prow of Slap Happy and Captain EO. Move up small crimps to climb to the top.
48. Face Left V0—start on the small bulging feature, which is just right of the Manic. Start with the left hand on a sidepull and the right hand on a small crimp. Move up to gain a right facing rail, then climb straight up to the top.
49. Face Right V0—start on the right side of the face using two positive crimps at about 5 feet up. Move straight up the face, eventually gaining a good right facing rail, then top out.
50. The Meat Hook V4—start by sitting underneath a small roof with the right hand on a sloper on top of the roof and the left hand on a side pull underneath the roof. Move up and left using the "meat hook" and then use small holds on the arête to continue up and leftwards on the arête to the top.
This short boulder problem is in the aspens just southwest of The Wedge. Approach as for The Wedge, but look right while on the climbers trail about 10 yards before The Wedge. There is an obvious, short offwidth.
51. The Offwidth V1—starts sitting in the offwidth. Use whatever necessary to get to the top.
is the huge boulder with a flat top found opposite and west of The Wedge.
52. All Hands on Deck V5—start by sitting in a mini cave on the far left side of this face, which is formed by a smaller rock with a prominent point leaning against the girth of the battleship. Move up this feature to the top of this smaller rock, which is the start of the traverse proper. Move along the lip of the boulder for about 40 feet before topping out on slopers just around the corner.
53. Hidden Treasure V7—this problem is on the far left side of the west face to the left of the wedged rock which makes the start for All Hands on Deck. Stand start with the right hand on a good crimp near the lower left end of this small arête. The left hand starts on a small left facing sloper/crimp just to the left of the right hand. Traverse rightwards along the lip/arête using crimps and slopers. Make long moves up and right to the hole near the top, then top out.
54. Brick Shithouse V8—start by standing underneath the steep roof which is below the top out for All Hands on Deck and to the left of the large diagonal seam which splits the face. The left hand starts on the sloping tooth feature under the roof and the right hand starts on the crimp just to the right. Make big moves to small pockets in the face above the overhang, and then go to the top.
55. Anchors Away V2—to the right of Brick Shithouse is a long diagonal seam which splits this huge face. At the top of the seam, just before the crack widens there is a large flat edge. Start standing with hands on this flat edge and move straight up to the top. The sit start has yet to see an ascent.
56. Dirty Business V5—start standing using stacked pads or the cheater stone to gain the left facing juggy flake. Using the juggy flake for hands and small footholds, move up to crimps and sidepulls and reach the top.
57. Flagship V9?—about 15 feet right of Dirty Business is this problem. Jump to the two handed slot directly below a 4 foot jutting roof with a 3 foot long crack splitting the face above. Move up and out the roof using the crack and poor footholds to gain the top.
58. The Cobra V7—start standing with the right hand on a small slopey rail and the left hand low on a small crimpy sidepull. Move up and left to flat jugs, then climb straight up, using pinches on the arête to gain the lip and the top out.
The Supernatural Boulder is most easily approached by heading northeast (towards the Battleship) from High Times on a climbers trail which starts at Left El Skyland. The trail leads right to Supernatural and Aku-Waku.
59. Supernatural V10—start sitting far under the overhang with both hands matched on the big bulbous hold. Make a move up and right to the prominent side pull. Then make moves left using the small crimp in middle of overhang to gain the lip and straight up to top.
60. Aku-Waku V10—start sitting as for Supernatural. Move out right into double gastons and then traverse rightwards on small crimps and poor feet to gain the lip and vertical face to top out.
61. Mini Problem V4—start sitting in a right angling seam to the left of the Wild Arête. Move up and right up the seam to a low top out.
62. Wild Arête V7—start standing with the right hand on a high crimp on the right edge of this prominent arête. The left hand starts on the small sidepull/flake which is more or less on the prow of the arête. Make a big move to a sloper straight up, and then go to top.
63. Wilder Arête V10—this is the sit start to Wild Arête. Start sitting directly below the arête with the right hand on a sharp sidepull on the right side of the arête. The left hand starts on a sloper/crimp on the left side of the arête. Climb up to join the stand start.
From the Supernatural Boulder walk east and on a flat trail about 20 yards to the west face of this small boulder.
64. Route 66 V3—start low and in the center of the short, overhanging face. The right hand starts on a razor crimp and the left hand a little higher up and left on a relatively good flat edge. Climb up using good crimps to a top out on the left side of the prow. Note: older guidebooks describe three seperate problems on this rock-not including the one described above. Due to the small size of this boulder, I’ve decided to only describe what I think is the most obvious line, which will hopefully make the description a lot less confusing.
The Spooky Boulder is approached from the High Times boulder by walking northwest and up the steep hill. This face that stands alone on the hill is visible from high times if you look hard enough.
65. Spooky V4—stand start on the right side of the face with the left hand on a good left facing crimp in the hueco feature and the right hand lower and out right on a right facing crimp. Move up using sharp pockets and sidepulls to top out at the highest point of the boulder up and left of the orange streak.
The Woods Area
The Woods Area
consists of The Wave, Candy Corn, Portrait, Big Sky, Bleu Sky boulders which lie hidden within the aspen grove located more or less behind and uphill from The Warm-Up boulder and The Wedge.
To approach The Wave, follow a trail which leads straight back into the aspens from the Warm-Up Rock. The Wave should be visible after about 50 yards or so.
66. Slab Masters of the Universe V2—start by standing on the left-center of the slightly slabby face. Using small and sometimes incut holds, climb straight up to the top.
67. Slabs Kick Ass V3—start by standing on the right-center of the face. Use small crimps to reach a flat edge, and then dyno to the top. This problem can also be done statically.
68. Jagged V1—start by standing about 3 feet to the right of Slabs Kick Ass. Use small crimps to reach the lip of the boulder, and then traverse leftwards along the lip to the end, and then top out.
Candy Corn Boulder
From The Wave, head straight left and slightly uphill—there is no trail really apparent as of now. This boulder lies about 75 yards from The Wave.
69. Candy Corn V3—start by sitting with hands on either side of the arête. Move up the arête, reaching the top of the point and then top out.
70. Sweet Tooth V1—start standing in the open dihedral to the right of Candy Corn. Move up crimps and top out.
Approach Portrait Boulder and the Big Sky Boulder from The Wedge by heading north (towards the mountain) for a few feet until a good trail is reached. Follow this trail to the right for about 20 yards then take a left (uphill) at an intersection. These boulders are about 100 yards up this trail. The Portrait Boulder is the first boulder encountered on the trail with the Big Sky Boulder uphill and almost touching the Portrait Boulder.
71. Crescent Moon V1—this problem starts in the shallow flaring dihedral like feature on the far left side of the face. Start standing with the right hand on a right facing sloping edge and the left hand on a good left facing crimp. Use crimps to reach the top.
72. Jack of all Trades V2—start by standing with both hands on slopers 5 feet to the right of Crescent Moon. Move up on slopey crimps to reach better holds and the top.
73. The Meteor V0—start standing about 15 feet to the left of Portrait of an Artist using a positive ramp which angles up and left. Use the ramp for hands and whatever else for feet to top.
74. The Meteor (sit start) V3—start sitting with left hand on small side pull and right hand on a small square-cut edge. Make a big move up to the juggy rail and top out.
75. The Bear Hug V5—left to right traverse starts on the same start holds as Crescent Moon. Use these start holds to traverse rightwards along the face staying low on slopers small footholds. Finish the traverse as for The Meteor.
76. Fashionably Late V2—just to the right of The Meteor and to the left of a big tree is this problem. Stand start by sing crimps on the face to climb to the top.
77. Portrait of an Artist V5—start sitting underneath the big overhang on the right side of face which is framed by two large trees. Use a small but good incut crimp to start and small footholds to move up into a positive flake, and then finish by climbing directly up the bulge to the top.
78. Portrait of an Artist (left var.) V5—start as for Portrait of an Artist. Move up to the slopey rail and then top out to the left in the shallow corner.
79. The Donut Hole V9—start by standing on the arête feature to the right of Portrait of an Artist. The left hand starts on small undercling flake on the prow of arête. The right hand starts higher on the right side of arête in the shallow square-cut pocket in orange rock. Move up the arête using a larger square-cut pocket to gain the slopey top out.
80. Dirt Bag Alarm Clock V0—starts standing with hands on a rather big ledge at five or six feet high. Climb straight up using good edges to top out.
81. Drippy White V2—this is the thin face right of Dirt Bag Alarm Clock. Start standing with the left hand on the good crimp in the white streak. Move straight up to the top and avoid the good edges out left.
82. Slab of Death V0—the lichen covered slab on the backside of this boulder is covered with small knobs which lead to the top.
Big Sky Boulder
Approach as for the Portrait Boulder. The Big Sky Boulder is uphill and almost touching the Portrait Boulder.
83. Burning Sky V9—start standing about 5 feet to the left of Dark Sky. The left hand starts on shallow left facing sidepull and the right hand starts on a bad sloper/crimp—both holds are on the lip of the overhang. Move up and right to a right hand crimp, and then climb to the top. Unrepeated.
84. Dark Sky V10—start by sitting on the far right side of the face amongst a rocky landing. The left hand starts on a well chalked sidepull/crimp and the right hand starts on a razor like sidepull out right. Move straight up to a small crimp then move left to the big sloping hold. Then climb to the top on slopers and small crimps.
85. Red Sky V7—the stand start to Dark Sky starts with the left hand on a big slopey side pull underneath the lip of the roof and the right hand lower and out right on a crimp. Use these holds and small footholds to reach the slopey holds at the lip, and then climb up to the top on slopers and crimps.
86. Red Sea V5—star by sitting just to the right of Dark Sky and below the overhanging arête where the Portrait and Big Sky boulders meet. Move up the arête using heel hooks and crimps, being careful not to use the Portrait boulder. Top out on the left side of the arête using the same top out holds as Dark Sky.
87. White Lie Arête V2—start standing just right of an aspen tree with both hands on the arête. A couple of easier moves up the arête lead to a tougher finish with small foot holds which take you to the top via the left side of the arête.
88. Lichen the Face V5—start standing just right of White Lie Arête with both hands on a big flat hold. Move up and left to small divot, then a big move up and right to good crimp, then climb to the top.
89. Bloody Tips V9—this problem is a little bit contrived beacuse it avoids using the easily reachable lip of the arête to tackle a more difficult and aesthetic line. Start by sitting below the arête on the far left side of the overhanging face, which is covered in bright orange lichen. Use a good left facing side pull to move up and right into a pinch/hole feature. Continue up and right without using the top of arête by using crimps, a triangle shaped flake in the face, a pinch in the seam and poor feet below the arête. Make difficult moves until you make a big move out right to a small crimp in a seam, then top out up the small lichen covered headwall using good holds.
90. Dirty Hands V1—using the same starting holds as Bloody Tips move up to the lip of the lichen covered arête and traverse this to the top.
The Bleau Sky Boulder
This mini boulder sits alone and has one unlikely problem on it. It lies about 75 yards south of The Wedge. It is most easily approached by the same description as the approach fro Portrait and Big Sky boulders, but instead of talking a left on the trail uphill which leads to the Big Sky and Portrait boulders, continue straight and this small round boulder can be seen on the (left side) in the aspens.
91. Bleau Sky V4—sit start with both hands on the semi positive flat edge in the center of the face. Make a move up and right to a positive crimp and then climb straight up to top out on slopers.
include seven of the smaller developed boulders in Skyland and are located amongst the aspens on a small flat area above High Times boulder and the Swamp Stones. Reach The Coyotes by heading north (towards Mount Crested Butte) along the base of the steep hill (on the left) from the High Times boulder for about 75 yards until a faint trail on the left is reached which goes straight up the steep hill. Follow this trail for about 100 yards up the hill. The Coyotes lie to the right on the top of this hill and the Rum Thwap Boulder and Hueco Boulder are the first boulders encountered.
The Hueco Boulder
After reaching the top of the hill on the approach to the Coyotes, make a right where the two smallish boulders of Rum Thwap and Hueco make create a small flat courtyard. The Hueco Roof defines the Hueco Boulder with its clean, south facing overhanging roof with a nice two inch rail running horizontally along the middle of the face.
92. Hueco Roof V6—start by standing in the middle of the overhanging face with both hands on the left most two of three semi-positive holds in the middle of the clean two inch rail. Move right to a more positive hold on the rail and a couple more traversing moves lead to the top out on the right.
93. Hueco Arete V6—start by sitting on a long slice of rock which lies at the base of the arête to the left of Hueco Roof. Both hands start on small slopers on the lip of the arête. Using these small holds and practically no feet to start, make your way up the arête using a small hueco near the top to top out.
94. Hueco Face V0—this problem starts just left of Hueco Arête. Start by standing (on the slice of rock if necessary) using a good right hand crimp and an OK left handhold. Climb straight up to the top.
Rum Thwap Boulder
The Rum Thwap Boulder lies just across from the Hueco Boulder. The short, north facing, overhanging prow which creates Rum Thwap is the most prominent feature on this boulder.
95. Rum Thwap V5—start sitting below overhanging arête like feature with both hands on an obvious double crimp on the left side of the arête. Move out right to small crimp on the right side of the arête, then climb straight up using the arête to top out.
96. Cha-Ching V2—this problem in the middle of the face starts sitting with hand(s) in the low but good right facing side pull. Move straight up using positive crimps and maybe a sloper to gain the top.
97. Rifle Overhang V1—to the left of Cha-Ching is this slightly overhanging blocky face. Start sitting with hands high on the left facing side pull/crimp feature. Move up blocky and incut holds to the top.
Head East (towards the peak of the mountain) from the Hueco Boulder. After about 15 yards you will reach the Medieval Boulder with its short, protruding and blocky roof/arête.
98. Medieval Gardener V4—starts sitting underneath the blocky overhanging orange colored arête which tops out at about 5 feet high. The right hand starts on a right facing square cut hold well underneath the arête. The left hand starts on a small hold on the lip of the arête. Make a move to sloping holds along the arête and then move to the flat top of the arête and to the top.
Game On Boulder
Directley across from Medieval Gardener is the very small Game On Boulder.
99. Game On V3—start sitting below the slightly overhanging north face of this small boulder. The right hand starts on a good right facing crimp and the left hand starts on a good right facing crimp out left. Make a big move up to gain the lip. Then go straight up to the top using a small dimple in the middle of the slab.
Supernatural Ice Boulder
The Supernatural Ice Boulder is the one touching the Medievel Boulder to the east. Walk towards Mt. Crested Butte from Medievel Gardener and around the Supernatural Ice Boulder to reach The Nose, and then walk around further to reach the hidden grotto of Supernatural Ice.
100. The Nose V1—on the north side of this boulder is a short, clean, streaked, vertical face capped by a small roof. Start low, using a right facing crimp to move up and left to a small crimp, and then climb straight up to the top.
101. Supernatural Ice V9—start sitting below the steep but short overhang using a left heel hook on the rail to make a move straight up to a positive crimp in middle of face. Continue moving up and rightwards for a few moves, and then top out.
The Triple Crown
The Triple Crown
refers to the grouping of three small boulders stacked on top of each other about 20 feet to the right of The Egg Boulder. Two boulders form the base with one boulder stacked in the middle of the other two to form a small tunnel and this non-traditional problem.
102. The Triple Crown V2—start by sitting with both hands on the bottom right hand boulder. Make a big move up and left to a good jug in the middle of the center boulder, and then top out.
The Egg Boulder
The Egg Boulder
lies about 75 yards to the north of the Hueco and Rum Thwap boulders. Follow game trails on flat ground until you reach a smallish triangle shaped block with a short, swooping arête.
103. Power of the Egg V3—start by sitting below the arête on the right side of this boulder with the left hand on a sloper to the left of the arête and the right hand in the hueco. Move up slopers, crimps and pinches to the top of the arête.
is approached as for The Shield, but head straight up the hill past the face of The Shield angling slightly left. About 100 yards up the hill the landscape flattens out. The Big Mamma is the first boulder encountered with its streaked open dihederal of Fu Man Boosche easily visible.
The Big Mamma
The Big Mamma
will be the first large boulder encountered if approached as for Zach’s Camp, with Fu Man Boosche being possibly Skyland’s most difficult established problem.
104. Fu Man Boosche V11—start sitting in the open dihedral with the left hand on a good sidepull and the right hand either of the two crimps. Move up and left into the tips undercling, then move out right to gain the big flat ledge, and then climb to top.
105. The V5 Jump Start V5— this is the jump start to Fu Man Boosche. Start the problem by jumping (or standing for some) to the good flat hold in middle of face, and then climb straight up to the top.
106. Tit for Tat V1—this is the arête feature to the right of Fu Man Boosche. Start low with hands matched on the positive edge on the right side of the arête. Move up the positive edge of the arête staying left. Top out up high and on the left side of the arête.
107. Nipple Twister V4—start this problem just left of the dihedral/ramp on the west face on a good left facing hold. Start low with a right hand on the big jug and left hand on the left facing slopey sidepull just below. Make a strenuous move straight left to a good sidepull, then move up and right up the arête to a top out on the right side of arête.
108. Sleepy Hollow V4—sit start with both hands matched on small crimps on the flexing and hollow sounding plate. Make a move up and right to a good sidepull, and then use crimps to climb to the top.
is a smallish grey slice of rock which lies a few feet to the northwest of the Big Mamma.
109. Knife Edge V0—start by standing on the left side of the sharp edge which makes the top of this boulder. Traverse up and right to the top.
110. Slice Arête V2—start on the right side of the face just to the left of the arête with the right hand on a good side pull and left hand on a large flat edge. Climb to the top.
refers to the tall, vertical orange colored face found about 20 feet to the north of the Slice.
111. Death Rattle V7?—stand start in the middle of the vertical face with the left hand in a small gaston in the seam and the right hand on a small right facing crimp. Move right to a good crimp, then move up and left back into the seam using small crimps and small footholds to reach the top straight up.
The Cry Baby Area
The Cry Baby Area
is one of the more difficult areas to describe how to get to as there is no trail and the boulders are well hidden amongst the aspens. From the Warm-Up Rock head south on the Upper Loop Trail for about 50 yards until there is a junction where the trail heads up left and into the aspens. Follow this trail for another 100--150 yards or so and then make a left when a small cairn is reached on the left side of the trail. Head more or less straight up the hill (no trail as of now) for about 300 yards until you reach the tall Big Baby Boulder with the high orange vertical face of Man Land overlooking the hillside.
Big Baby Boulder
Approach as for The Cry Baby Area. This Boulder is the first encountered.
112. Baby Face V1—this shorter problem starts on the left side of this face. Start left of the green moss streak with hands low on two small crimpers. Go straight up the face to the top.
113. Man Land V3—this highball problem starts on the orange face (south face) which makes up the highest part of this boulder. Start by using a large right facing side pull to move into pockets and small edges, eventually reaching a bigger left facing side pull near the top and then straight up.
114. Big Baby Slab Right V0—start on the low angle slab in between two aspen trees on the right side of this face. Climb straight up to the top.
115. Big Baby Slab Left V0—start left of Big Baby Slab Right standing on a small boulder. Climb straight up, angling slightly right for a higher finish.
116. Cry Baby V1—starts just left of the small boulder which marks the start for Big Baby Slab Left. Use the sloping ramp to move up and left as the holds get smaller. Top out straight up on small holds to reach the top.
117. The Mossman Prophecies V3—start sitting on the low left side of this traversing arête with the right hand on a good crimp on the face and the left hand on a small crimp/sloper low on the lip of the arête. Move up and right using heel hooks and face holds to stay right to top out on good flakes and edges.
About 25 yards southeast of The Big Baby Boulder lies this smallish boulder. No problems have been sent starting from the small cave feature as of yet.
118. The Schwoop V3—start standing on the right side of the small cave with the left hand on the best crimp on the face about a foot above the lip of the roof. The right hand starts lower on a sloper just above the lip. Move up the vertical face using pinches and sidepulls to a top out slightly left.
The Stand Alone Area
This area includes is a single boulder which lies on the very outskirts of the epicenter of Skyland bouldering. Approach as for The Cry Baby Area, but walk past the small cairn on the left side of the Upper Loop Trail which marks the approach for The Cry Baby Area. Walk for 100 yards or so until a second small cairn is reached on the left side of the trail. Head straight through the aspens and up the hill for about 5 minutes and this boulder will appear out of nowhere.
Stand Alone Boulder
119. Solace V0—start by standing at the base of the slightly overhanging orange and black streaked face. Move up to the large lichen covered, left facing ramp to the top.
120. Sigh of Relief V1—about 5 feet to the left of Solace is a positive scooped jug at about 6 feet above the ground. Start standing with hands matched on the scooped jug and make a move up and left to a crimp and continue to the top.
121. Stand Alone Arête V0—start with the right hand on a semi-positive right facing crimp on the arête and the left hand to the left of the arête on a sloper. Crimp up the arête to the top.
122. Hippies in the Woods V1—stand start in between 2 aspen trees which lie 5 feet apart at the base of a right angling arête/slab. The right hand starts on a slopey right facing sidepull at the bottom of a small diagonal roof. The left hand starts on a slopey crimp on the left side about 2 feet to the left . Climb straight up from here to the top.
123. One Fall Too Many V2—start by standing underneath a small bulge just to the right of the moss covered arête and to the left of a small aspen. The left hand starts on a good crimp in the bulge and the right hand starts on a good right facing crimp on the right side of the bulge. Climb straight up, using the right hand seam and a sloping ledge up high to reach the summit.
124. The Stand V3—start by standing below the overhanging arête on the left side of the face. The right hand starts in the deep pocket on the arête and the left hand starts in a small pocket/crimp low and to the left of the arête. Make a move left to another shallow pocket, using this hold to gain the small ledge above. Top out as for Solace.
Posted by Zach